La Perla (www.la-perla.net) isn't what North Americans would consider a typical spa. Sure, it has facial and massage type treatments, but it's known mainly for its 'water therapies'. Located right on the beach, I suppose they know from water.
Over a mandatory coffee, Alex gives us a lay of the land and we all head downstairs to begin our morning of relaxation. We start in this enormous whirlpool where jet stream stations pulse at different areas of your body as you walk through the circuit - shoulders, quads, hips, glutes, calves and even feet are given full attention and it doesn't take long to see why this place is so popular (it's a workday Tuesday morning and the place is doing brisk business). In fact, the locals don't consider this type of spa a luxury at all, it's a necessity of relaxation and general life therapy. I can dig it. After being pulsated almost to the point of jello, we head to our second pool, and lie for what could have been hours on the most luxurious bubble beds. Bubbles. All over you bubbles. Bubbles on your back, flip over and bubbles on your tummy. I love bubbles. I want a bubble bed. Next, downstairs. A bit of a trip here, really. It's a bit darker and the pool itself looks like something out of that mid - 1990s Matthew Broderick movie "Road to Wellville". There are stationary bikes, rowing machines and other fitness apparati in the pool. People are exercising. It's all so odd. We must try! It's hard not to laugh, really as we're so used to a 'more you sweat, the better it is' type of workout mentality at home. We try our hands and feet at a few machines and then onto the sauna and steamroom. Joy. Our two hours are almost up and after a traditional whirlpool and little laydown overlooking the beatch, it's time to go - the water circuit runs on time and this two hour glimpse of heaven was purchased for 25 euros. A bargain in any language.
Relaxing works up an enormous appetite and now it's time for our pintxos tour of San Sebastián. Pintxos are the Basque equilvalent of tapas and the best pintxos in Basque Country are found in San Sebastián. Perfect. The whole idea of pintxos is perfect. You have a small (literally translated pintxos means pinch) plate, accompanied by a small glass of wine or beer and off you go to the next place, to sample more pintxos and drink more beer. Pintxos are laid out on the bar and you take what you want, sometimes ordering hot ones to order. Everything is delicious, fresh, unique and local. The whole concept of 'food to table' and '100 mile diet' is laughable here (and of course in most parts of Europe) - that's just what they do.
It's time now for our mandatory afternoon siesta. We have a big night ahead. More eating at Arzak.
The Basque region is known all around the world as a gastronomic paradise: from pintxos to wine to more Michelin rated restaurants per capita than anywhere else in the world. I'm well aware that fine dining, coupled with more expensive, doesn't necessarily mean better but when in Rome ... So, we decide on Arzak simply because it's located closest to the hotel. As an added bonus, the restaurant is run by a father / daughter team who live with their families above the restaurant. So adorable.
The experience itself is beyond compare - a staff of thousands (okay, no, but LOTS) whisking away cutlery, pouring wine and water. A tasting menu so intricate it's hard to know where to begin. Flavour combinations so peculiar, until they land in your mouth and you believe it was always meant to be. The dining room itself was small and intimate but in pure European fashion not at all snooty. A lovely French couple next to us struck up a conversation mid - meal and when Chef Arzak made his rounds later in the evening, we all squealed with joy. I've heard that many people plan trips to San Sebastián around reservations here and I can see why. For 5 hours we were treated like princesses, eating innovative food made with care and even whimsy - purees shaped like clothespins, chocolate balls playing marbles with each other, pop rocks on candies of coca-cola! I can't say I would do a 230 Euro (now, that is including lots of wine) dinner every night, but once or sometimes you simply must. It's simply a must do.
Now, today, it's Wednesday and - guess what. It's raining AGAIN. We seek refuge in the Museum of San Telmo, a museum devoted to Basque culture. The featured exhibit now is on the Basque language and it's an extremely well put together exhibition bringing thoughts of language and culture extinction to our minds. I heard much of this in Hawaii last year, and the notion is just so sad, but a sign of our modern times.
We're now off for a short siesta, as pre dinner cocktails await.
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